Guided reading:
Few people know that this international fashion giant headquarters is not in the bustling capital city of Mardrid,but in a unknown small town in northwest Spain---Altezor. However the small town is controlling a huge network of 80 countries all over the world and more than 7000 shops It is always in control of the global fast fashion weathervane.
导读:
很少有人知道,这一国际时装巨头总部并不在繁华喧闹的首都马德里,而是位于西班牙西北部一个名不见经传的小镇——阿尔特索。然而这个小镇却控制着一个遍布全球80多个国家、拥有7000多家店铺的庞大网络,时刻掌控着全球快时尚风向标。
Rapid response
快速反应
When new fashion elements appears in a film or television meida,Zara just need a few days to complete the imitation of the singer’s costume or top fashion master’s creative work.
当电影或电视媒体中出现新的流行元素,ZARA只需几天的时间就可以完成对歌星的装束或顶级服装大师创意作品的模仿。
From the identification of fashion trends to cater fashion trends and put new cloing into stores,Zare just need two weeks’ time, while traditional production cycle needs 4-12 months.
从流行趋势的识别到将迎合流行趋势的新款时装摆到店内,ZARA只需两周的时间,而传统生产方式下这个周期要长达到4-12个月。
Zara has created a supply chain legend in FMCG field. Every year Zara design over 18000 new styles. 2 to 3 weeks a new style appears on average. It takes 7days to finish production ,14 days to take off the cabinet and 30 days to OTC. Zara can make about 50000 new fashion, while another brand GAP can just make 4000 a year.
因此Zara在快速消费品领域里创造了一个供应链的神话--ZARA每年设计1.8万个新样式,平均每2至3周就能够有新款上架,它可以做到7天生产、14天下柜、30天上柜。每年共推出约5万种新款时装。另一个时尚品牌GAP,一年也只能推出4000款。
Zara can quickly catch customers preferences and quickly make clothing, then send to stores all around the world. Spain media reported:” the new clothing designed by the designer on computer can be sent to the customer in 2 to 3 weeks.”
Zara可以快速捕捉到顾客偏好并迅速做成服装,然后送到世界各地的分店,西班牙报道说:“设计师在电脑上设计的一件服装最快在两到三周内就可以到达顾客手中。”
Of course, the matching is Zara’s design speed. Hundreds of designers work together, design a new clothing within 20 minutes on average, this is 4-6times faster than H&M. So no one can match up with Zara fashion’s response capacity. So how does Zara collect these fragmented fashion elements accurately?
当然,与之相匹配的是Zara的设计速度,几百名设计师默默无闻的工作,平均20分钟就可以设计出一件衣服,这是是H&M的4-6倍。因此Zara对时尚的反应能力无人能及,那么Zara是如何精准的搜集这些碎片化的时尚元素呢?
Fashion catch
时尚捕捉
Zara’s designers are typical “trapeze”, they always fly to all kinds of fashion shows or places. So designers inspiration comes from the fashion forward position like bars,shows and fashion weeks.
Zara的设计师是典型的“空中飞人”,他们经常坐飞机穿梭于各种时装发布会之间,或者出入各种时尚场所。因此ZARA的设计灵感来源于大量分布在酒吧、秀场、时装周等时尚前沿阵地。
Usually, Zara will publish some similar fashion when the top grand’s new design came out. This way can make sure to follow fashion trends.
通常,一些顶级品牌的最新设计刚出来没多久,Zara就会发布和这些设计非常相似的时装。这样的设计方式能保证Zara紧跟时尚潮流。
At the same time ,Zara has to pay these brands tens millions euro fine.
也因此,每年Zara都要向那些顶级品牌支付几千万欧元的罚款。
Zara doesn’t give up this design pattern,cause the profits is much higer than the fines.
Zara并没有因此放弃这种设计模式--Zara从中赚取的利润要比罚款高得多。
In addition, stores are the best places to collect fashion elements, cause only in the store we can know customers’ needs. Stores offer sale data and give to store manager. After finishing sortiong out these data, store manager will submit the result to the design department. Design team design style according to the customers’ needs and then send to the commercial sector to assess cost and price, finally start playing board.
除此之外,收集时尚元素的最佳地方是店铺,因为只有在店铺才能了解顾客的需求。店铺提供销售数据,再将其递交给店面经理,店面经理整理完毕后将结果交给设计部门,设计部分按照顾客需求设计出款式,再将其递交给商业部门去评估成本和价格,之后再开始打板制作。
Due to the customer demond for fashion is changing, collected information from store is time sensitive. Therefore, designers will no langer play the most important role , but to view the psychological needs of customers. It is a pervasive design philosophy.
因为顾客对于时尚的需求是变化的,从店铺收集的资料是具有时效性的,因此,这也就意味着设计师们不再对设计起决定性作用,而是需要洞察消费者的心理需求,这是一种倒行逆施的设计理念。
Although Zara is not the first advocate of fashion, it can rely on the store to collect present fashion trends,change the moment popular into reality with the fastest speed.
因此ZARA虽然不是时尚的第一倡导者,却可以依靠店铺收集当下流行趋势,以最快速度把当下的流行变成现实的行动者!
Someone said:” Zara is a monster, a designer’s nightmare.” Because Zara’s fast response will reduce the value of famous brand’s design.
有人称“ZARA是一个怪物,是设计师的噩梦”,因为ZARA的快速反应无疑会使大牌设计的溢价值大大降低。
No matter how famous the garment is, the cycle from design to Cabinet needs 6-9 months or even longer. So they have to work hard to predict the future fashion style and the sales. As the result,unmarketable goods remaining a brunch,but well-sold goods are out of stock. Seeing a good sale opportunity goes by.
因为无论多么大牌的服装,从设计到上柜的周期至少达到了6-9个月甚至更长,所以他们都不得不努力去预测几个月后会流行什么、销售会有多大,最后结果往往是滞销的商品剩下一大堆,畅销的又补不上,只能眼看着大好的销售机会流逝。
(ONE)
AND THEN SEE YOU TOMORROW
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