佛国色达 世界|悉尼摄影师镜头下的佛国色达

Brook Mitchell是一位澳大利亚的摄影师,照片看着是个暖暖的大叔:


他于去年来到中国四川游历,其中大部分时间在色达和亚青度过。他用文字和镜头记录了在这两地的生活。

相对于一般的旅行者,Brook更倾向于近距离的接触民生,每张照片中的眼神都好像随时都要动起来。

以下摘录的是他在色达的游记:




佛国色达 世界|悉尼摄影师镜头下的佛国色达

In this almost impossibly remote place, sitting high on theTibetan Plateau, 9,000 monks and nuns had found a home, to learn from itscharismatic and avowedly apolitical founder, Khenpo Jigme Phuntsok.By 2001 over1,000 Han also called Larung Gar home.

在这个青藏高原上近乎与世隔绝的不毛之地,9000多为男女僧侣为自己的信仰建立了一个新的家园。他们在此聆听他们不参政的精神领袖晋美彭措对他们的教诲。到2001年,另外1000多汉族人也来到此地,并把喇荣五明佛学院定义为他们心中的圣地。




Both Larung Gar and Yarchen Gar have remained largely hidden from the outside world, Both sit at elevations of over 4,000 metres, sunk deep into hidden valleys of the Hengduan mountain range.

喇荣五明佛学院和亚青寺都是在和外部世界有很大隔断的地域中。他们都是4000米以上的海拔并且深陷在横断山谷中。



In theory, to move around Garzê as a foreigner, one only needs a Chinese tourist visa and bucket loads of time, patience and fortitude. Visitors to the TAR are required to first negotiate a complex and shifting permit process, before joining an organised and highly controlled tour of the region.

理论上来讲,去往甘孜县的外国游客只需要一张有中国签证的护照和大把的时间即可。游客若是去西藏,即便是在重重管控下的跟团旅行也会在边境接受复杂的盘问,走很多流程。




The monks and nuns live their lives separated by the main road which slices Larung Gar camp down the middle.

男女僧人分两个片区居住,隔开他们的正是横跨喇荣五明佛学院的那条主干道。



In the regional town of Sertar, the reality of the security situation quickly hits home. I was challenged in the main square and taken to police headquarters to sign in and face a barrage of questions.Mercifully, one officer spoke English and took my story of being a history teacher at face value.

在色达城中心,安保问题是重中之重,像我就在中心广场是接受了警察的盘问并被带到了警局。好在有一位警员会讲英语,我说我是个历史老师,他就天真的相信了。




During the following days I was left free to explore the vast warren of huts, temples and study houses that surround the complex. One morning I witnessed a loud monks’ debate; where the men and boys almost come to blows over competing theological arguments.

在接下来的几天,我就能自由自在的游览这里众多的木屋、寺庙和祷告堂。一天早上我还亲眼目睹了一场僧侣间盛大的争论,这些男人们为了自己的信仰认真到差点动手起来。




Many Chinese tourists visit Larung too. The biggest draw for them turns out to be the opportunity to witness a traditional Tibetan ‘Sky Burial’.

很多中国人也会来色达旅行,他们对这里最大的好奇,是想观摩西藏独有的一种传统——天葬。


Macabre to some, this ancient ritual is both a practical way of disposing of human remains whilst also adhering to jhator, the principle of kindness to all living things, which includes feeding these huge carrion creatures.

有点毛骨悚然的是,这种古老的宗教仪式既是对亡灵往生的一种释放,也是对自然规律的崇敬,也就是说这是一种饲喂大型鸟类的行为。




The institute at Larung Gar currently attracts followers of Tibetan Buddhism from all over China. After Jigme’s death in 2004, countless followers made a pilgrimage to Larung Gar to pay homage to their spiritual master. Today, Larung Gar is home to an estimated population of 50,000 people.

喇荣五明佛学院吸引了全中国的藏传佛教弟子前来参拜。2004年,晋美彭措逝世,他的无数的信徒们前来悼念瞻仰并留在色达。现在的喇荣五明佛学院已经驻留了5万人。




Yarchen Gar, founded in 1985 hard against the border of the TAR, has deplorable living conditions. Monsoon rains bring regular flooding; on my visit ankle-deep raw sewage flowed into the streets on more than one occasion.

亚青寺,始建于1985年,靠近川藏边界,也在一种十分严峻的生存状态中。季风雨长期会带来洪涝灾害,我当时就遇上没过脚踝的污水流淌在街道的每个角落。




No electricity runs to the island where the nuns live.In winter, the temperatures plunge to a life-threatening minus 25 degrees. Yet this does not deter the nuns, with nothing more than a blanket to shield worshippers from the cold.

女僧人们住的地方没有电,冬季最低气温会下降到零下25度。但这些似乎都不妨碍女僧人们修行,他们在冬季祷告时也只是多加一条毯子。




The reward for this remarkable display of self-deprivation is the chance to learn first-hand from some of the most revered figures in Tibetan Buddhism.

吃了这些苦头都是有回报的。她们这样才会有机会和藏传佛教中受人尊敬的长辈直接对话。



Not only do the nuns dedicate themselves fully to their studies, they are also responsible for almost all physical labour at Yarchen, constructing houses, unloading trucks or building roads. The monks, who rarely participate in physical labour here, seem to have it easy in comparison.

这些女僧人们不仅信仰虔诚,并且还负责几乎亚青寺所有的体力劳动,包括建筑房屋、道路、搬运货物。男僧人们,不参加体力劳动,相对就好过得多。




Han Chinese money has poured into this region, with relatively wealthy converts to Tibetan Buddhism bringing much needed funds to the camps. These wealthy benefactors, hoping to improve their karma for the next business deal.

汉族人已经有很多来此地投钱,多项针对本地发展的基金已经设立。汉族的投资人也是有目的的,他们希望善行能给他们在新的一年的事业中带来好运。




During my time in Yarchen I had several memorable brushes with the revered leader, Asong Tulku. As he piloted his gleaming white Lexus around the slum, our paths would meet on my early morning photo shoots. Watching people fall into the putrid mud at his feet wherever he walked, all rushing to pay tribute with cash and gifts.

我在亚青寺的时间还有幸接触了主持阿松活佛。带着他闪耀的随从们从贫民窟中走过,人们纷纷献出善款和礼物。




Basic supplies were taken by foot to a hidden nook outside the complex, the location of which was strictly off limits to outsiders.

生活的基本物资都是用人工的方式徒步背到山里,地理位置的特殊限制了很多外来者的进入。




At the entrance to the valley I reached a sign hammered into the ground, with a message written in bold letters, announcing that any man who followed the nuns on their trek would return blind.

在山谷的入口处,一张标识牌竖立着,用巨大的字体写着:任何跟踪女僧人者皆遭盲目之报。



这个星轨夜城简直美炸了!有木有


顺着Brook大叔的签名,小编爬到了他的个人网站上(尼玛一个个人网站竟然需要翻墙!!)

发现他曾去过30多个国家,拍下了上千张照片,而每一个照片,特别是照片中的人物亦都栩栩如生。


Brook完全践行了“travel like a local” 的理念去旅行,无论到哪里都深入当地的民俗文化,热心参与其中,感受当地节日的氛围。


巴厘岛




罗地岛


PS 这还是小编第一次看到在海边养猪



哈马黑拉岛





巴尔萨那



伊朗




还有很多不为人知原生态的澳洲土著


阿纳姆的



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